Experience the Beautiful John Day Fossil Beds National Monument

If you have never visited the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, you’re in for a real treat. In this post I’m sharing what to expect you visit the John Day Fossil Beds in Oregon. For starters, the John Day Fossil Bed National Monument is a part of the National Parks System and features three distinct units: The Painted Hills Unit, The Sheep Rock Unit and the Clarno Unit. We visited the Painted Hills and Sheep Rock Units and hope to explore the Clarno Unit soon. Unlike most National Parks and Monuments, admission is free year round at the John Day NM! Our trip fell during the early part of October and the weather was perfect for hiking. Below are descriptions of the four trails we explored.

Painted Hills Unit

Dan and I have talked about visiting the Painted Hills for YEARS…decades actually. Located just 3.5 hours from our house, the Painted Hills are kind of off-the-beaten-path…in the middle of nowhere and pretty much out of the way. We almost made it this summer, but like most other attempts, we decided to push it back and “do it next time.”

I’m not sure if it’s after landing square in the middle of mid-life or what, but we are definitely working hard to turn all of our “next time” places into right now places. We’re done with putting off all the things.

The day was perfect, sunny and warm, but not hot. We had just enough time for four short hikes.

• Painted Hills Overlook Trail. This was the steepest trail, but at only .5 miles long, it was pretty easy! Although visitors are not allowed to step onto the fragile soil that makes up the Painted Hills, you can see several game trails where local animals have established their own paths.

• The Painted Cove Trail is another easy .25 mile, flat trail that meanders around vibrant red hills made of dry, crusted soil. This area features a boardwalk to prevent travelers from walking on the sensitive soil.

• Red Scar Knoll Trail: An easy .25 mile walk around a colorful red and golden yellow hill.

Each section has a very unique look that was fun to see up close.

Sheep Rock Unit

The Sheep Rock Unit is about an hours drive from the Painted Hills and is named after the bighorn sheep that once lived here.

Our mid-October visit, gifted us with this stunning view of Sheep Rock highlighted by the golden yellow Rabbitbrush seen from the visitor center parking lot.

The view in March was less colorful, but the lack of yellow blooms provided an unobstructed view of Sheep Rock.

The Sheep Rock Unit is home to the only visitor center for the John Day National Monument. At Thomas Condon Visitor Center you can get your passport stamped and view hundreds of fossil specimens.

Visit Cant Ranch at the Base of Sheep Rock

Scottish immigrants James and Elizabeth Cant and their four children lived together in this home they built in 1917.

The historic home and museum is only open during the summer, so we couldn’t go inside, but the grounds are open to explore.

This epic view is located behind the home and is worth a look. We skipped the trails at Cant Ranch due to a tight schedule, but for those interested there are two short trails.

River Trail (0.6 miles round trip)
Sheep Rock Overlook Trail (0.5 miles round trip)

Blue Basin: Island in Time Trail and Overlook Trail

This unique section through blue-green and tan rock layers can be found in the Sheep Rock Unit and is not to be missed. There are two trails in the Blue Basin area.

• Island in Time Trail is an easy 1.3 mile out and back trail straight through the Blue Basin. (Hiked Oct 2023)

• Blue Basin Overlook trail is 3.25 miles and is 760 ft in elevation and features views from above. (Hiked March 2024)

Both trails use the Island in Time trailhead at the Blue Basin parking lot. Then the trial splits off at a trail marker.

Island in Time Trail

I’ve lived in Oregon for 50 years and had no idea this place existed. The trail feels a little like you are on another planet and was even better than I expected! From start to finish, you are surrounded by walls of blue-green rock that reminded me of what the hoodoos at Bryce Canyon would have looked like before they were hoodoos.

The terrain was mostly gravel with 13 bridges to cross. Unfortunately, the grates on the bridges are hard on dog’s paws and they may find it difficult to walk on. For this reason this is not an ideal hike for your four-legged friends unless you are able to carry them over the bridges.

You will find several interpretive signs and fossil replicas explaining the surroundings. This display features the fossilized remains of a tortoise.

The blue green colored layers of volcanic ash is caused by chemical weathering of a mineral called celadonite and in a funny way, reminds me of my face when I’m using a clay face mask!

This blue-green water was like none I’ve seen before. Besides the color, the water was very milky and opaque.

Blue Basin Overlook Trail

Five months after my first trip, I went back to hike the Overlook Trail. It was more spectacular than I could have imagined!

After climbing a series of switchbacks we were rewarded with fantastic views of the Turtle Cove rock formations and expansive views over the John Day River Valley.

Along the hike is a landscape of sagebrush, western juniper, and bunch grass.

Plan Ahead

Due to the remoteness of the John Day Fossil Beds, you won’t find any services. Be prepared to fill up with gas and grab any food and water you need before you arrive. Download any directions ahead of time as cell service and GPS signals are unreliable.